As you know by now, I have to wear an abaya off of the DQ. Since there are such strict laws about being covered in KSA, it begged the question – where did this cultural tradition come from? With most things now that are unfamiliar to me, my curiosity is constantly piqued so I had to do some research.
The origins of the abaya are vague. Some think that it existed as long as 4 000 years ago in the ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia (which is now Iraq) and when Islam arose in the seventh century C.E., the religion absorbed local veiling practices into its culture, probably due to the dressing traditions of the women of Arab Jahiliya.
In the Arabian Peninsula, women have been wearing an abaya-type garment for hundreds of years. Before Islam, the women who were dressed in abayas were seen as luxurious women from noble families who did not have to work. They were distinguished from maids and prostitutes, who were not allowed to cover their bodies.
It was later adopted for religious reasons as a sign of modesty and privacy. For many, the abaya represents a proud tradition and deeply-respected culture. In the past, they were often made of wool or silk, and came in one flowing size. Bedouin women often wore various types of lightweight shawls and wraps, not necessarily the black abaya as it is now known. The first abayas were made from one piece, both for the head and the body. It went all the way to the floor and it covered both the head and the body.
I can subscribe to the function of the abaya. A few weeks after we arrived J and I went out for afternoon and there were sandstorms. I was happy to be covered so my clothes didn’t get dusty. I went out without my hijab and regretted it because I really would have appreciated my hair being shielded from the sand. I imagine when people were still living in the literal desert the utility of the abaya was great!
In modern day, not so much. In the office it’s constantly getting caught in the wheels of my desk chair. There is just so much material it’s like trying to pee in a wedding dress, that I have to take it off when I use the WC. I often trip walking up stairs, seriously. And the quality of the materials is the worst! I have the biggest struggle finding any made of linen or cotton. Most, although they look really cool, are made of synthetics. Not conducive to 115 degree heat. That much polyester in this heat is a fire hazard and I could burst into flames!
So why do KSA women wear black abayas? Well, the answer for this a really hazy. I read that black was a color that early women were able to easily create from the resources they had – goats mainly – and so black it was. I don’t know, wearing goatskin in the desert heat seems unbelievable. It’s also said that Muslim women wore black because it didn’t reveal anything underneath. It was originally connected to Islam and it fulfilled a purpose of not revealing anything. Another source I read stated that one man had the abaya market cornered and he only made them in black. Leave it to a man to come up with the nonsensical color of black, while men wear white thobes. This is totally believable!
Recently norms have relaxed a bit. Have you seen the Carolina Herrera and Dolce & Gabbana abayas? Stunning! You can walk into any abaya boutique and see a small range of colors available – navy, hunter green, mauve, tan, grey. Surprisingly, they’re not very popular. I think only diplomats and expats buy them because I only see Saudi women wear black in public. A fashion designer commented that the demise of color was mainly due to ‘familial pressure’ applied by male family members who want women to blend in. Saudi Muslim women are told they aren’t supposed to attract any attention, hence their bodies being covered. So one can imagine abayas that are flashy or standout in a crowd are not going to be wildly popular by the 'guardians'.
I suppose I wouldn’t care that much about abaya style if I spent most of my time on the DQ, but now that I’m going into the office on a daily basis the abaya is now my means of fashion expression. So I have to buy a bunch of abayas - breathable, subdued color, unique, but not too flashy. 😉